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PERU Day 11: Mountain biking the Inca wonders of Maras and Moray

Mountain biking through small villages, donkey herds, and the Inca's trail.

Our wonderful guide, Abel, and Gregg. | Gregg riding through a donkey herd.

At Moray, an agricultural experiment for the Incas.

The purpose of these depressions to the Incas was a mystery, but their depth and orientation with respect to wind and sun creates a temperature difference of as much as 15 °C (27 °F) between the top and bottom. This large temperature difference was possibly used by the Inca to study the effects of different climatic conditions on crops. In other words, Moray was perhaps an Inca agricultural experiment station.

Great single track riding!

PERU Days 8 & 9: Agues Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.

Aguas Calientes looking back into the jungle | Looking up into the town, nestled in this jungle canyon.

Gregg, shopping. Yes, shopping. The markets are amazing and the prices ridiculous, especially considering most everything is handmade.

The bridge over the river that connects the town of Aguas Calientes | Gregg's gigantic jungle avocados.

The train back to Ollantaytambo | Views along the way.

PERU Days 6 & 7: Hiking more jungle and the magic of Machu Picchu

Our first site walking in at sunrise | Surrounding mountains

 

The peak of Huanu Picchu at sunrise

Clouds at sunrise | The entrance from the Inca Trail to the ciduidad of Machu Picchu | Grazing llamas

The city of Machu Picchu is enveloped in clouds in the morning... this quickly changes throughout the day!

The quarry at Machu Picchu -- an amazing site considering that the Incas created this city from the rocks, without wheels and at an altitude of 8,000 feet.

Gregg makes friends with the black llama -- the most revered llama in the Inca culture. | The sun temple -- facing southeast, this temple absorbs the energy of the morning sun for the people.

This scene was magical. Alpacas in the foreground and Huanu Picchu misted in clouds in the background.

Hiking the amazing peak of Huanu Picchu was incredible feat and not for the faint. Step after step was felt through every part of the body!! | The Inca stairs were built into the terraces rather than at the ends of the terrace for strength.

At the top of Huanu Picchu... the knee made it!

The surrounding peaks of Machu Picchu

One of the most stunning views of this magical city.

PERU Day 5: Hiking the Inca Trail

The 2000 foot valley below | Playing dressup in a jungle village | Flowers growing out of the cliff-hugging steps of the Inca Trail

 

Uphill for 5 hours!!

Looking back on the trail wrapping around the mountain.

Parrots in their native environment | Cacao in its natural form | Monkeys like mangos

Our group -- no one spoke an ounce of English except for a little by our guide, Abel. | Playing traditional Peru dress-up in a jungle village.

Banana trees line the trail | This seed is a natural dye for makeup and sunscreen | The beautiful flowers that line the trail

The only way across this raging white water river was via cart. A little scary but very necessary. There is no easy way to cross.

A true display of cultural values -- Residents of the small impoverished village of Santa Theresa live in dirt shacks, yet the soccer field of the town is perfectly manicured and guarded with barbed wire fencing.

PERU Day 4: Biking from 14,000 feet down to 4000 feet in 5 hours

This was day one of our 4 day Inca Jungle Tour to Machu Picchu. These four days have been the absolute highlight of our trip!

We started by taking the curvy, hairpin and hairstanding road up to the 14,000 foot peak of Abra Malaga. As we winded through green steep countryside and deep valleys on both sides, we passed small remote villages accessible only by foot. Village children would run out to the road to watch us pass. Alpacas, mountain goats, and sheep added to this picturesque scene around every corner!

Trying not to be car-sick was a feat in itself, but I captured this video of an incredible section of the drive:  http://vimeo.com/17801871

Once we got to 14,000 foot peak Abra Malaga, the climate completely changed to cold, foggy alpine frigidness!! We could actually see our breath! It was here we were dumped with our downhills bikes to start our 5-hour descent to the backside of the Andes into the jungle. So we started our drive at dry highland valleys, started our descent on the top of a mountain, and only about 30 miles as the crow flies we are in a moist and humid jungle. Yes, the climate and setting changes that quick. It’s amazing.

 

On the dry highland side of the mountain pass Abra Malaga, in the Sacred Valley before our ascent to 14,000 feet.

At 14,000 feet in the fog and cold! We start our 10,000 foot descent here.

Small villages and homestead along our ride.

Sheep, goats, llamas, and alpacas cruise the mountain road.

Young boy who walked up from a mountain village to visit with us!

Waterfalls on every corner.

 

 

The jungle valley below via the twisty, hairpin road. We rode the bikes down as far as you can see into that most distance mountain range!!

PERU Day 3: The Sacred Valley – Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero

Finally getting acclimated, we decide to take a taxi to visit the Sacred Valley, about 2 hours east of Cusco and about another 2000 feet up in the Andes Mountains. And I thought the Cascades and Rockies were cool. The Andes are AMAZING!

The Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley is so called because their soil and climate can grow just about anything, hence the Incas named it “sacred.” That and the powerful spiritual connection with the earth (called “Pacahama”) that blankets this region. When you stand at 12,000 feet and look around, you can’t help but think it’s sacred as well: green rolling fields, the snaking Urubumba River, Inca village ruins on what seem to be impassable ridges, and huge Andes peaks surrounding the valley on all sides.

This was a full day. We visited a wildlife sanctuary for condors, pumas, and other miscellaneous Andes wildlife including the hairless dog (I don’t think that really counts as Andes wildlife).

Afterwards, we visited an alpaca and llama textile farm that walks you through the steps of alpaca wool fabrication, coloring, and textile crafts.  This was very cool — did you know alpacas and llamas are part of the camel family?

After feeding and interacting with what could be my next sweater, we came to the area where they dye the wool with natural dyes from native plants and insects. Yes, insects.  The most vibrant red coming from the blood of a tiny cactus-leeching insect no bigger than a flea.

We watched the process of squashing the insects to retract the blood, grinding the color, mixing it in a big pot, then dying the wool in strands by hand. So cool! Now we see the bright red color in traditional Peruvian clothes and costumes everywhere.  All from a tiny bug!

 

You can see here the spools of yarn and the roots (plants, insects, grains, flowers, etc.) that each came from. The color mixer dude is pulling one of the insects from the cactus for the red color. Then below he dyes the alpaca wool strands in the pots of color, then they are hung to dry.

Freshly dyed yarn hangs to dry

 

 

The colors of the alpaca yarn from the elements of plants, leaves, insects, earth.

Once the wool strands dry, they are ready for weaving! You’ll have to see my sweater later!

The agriculture terraces in the background, at Pisaq ruins.

The Inca stairs at Pisaq have been in place for over 700 years and are a truly amazing display of the Inca's stone mastery.

The sun temple at Pisaq. It generates energy from the sun and radiates through touching its walls.

From Ollantaytambo, the mystical face of Wiracocha in the opposing mountain was said to be an angry Inca God.

PERU Day 2: Around town, Cusco ruins, still catching our breath.

We decided to spend a couple of days getting acclimated before taking on any serious hiking or anything outside of climbing the stairs in our hostel! Here’s some Cusco info for ya: Cusco is the second biggest city in Peru and the capital of the Inca Empire. Evidence of Inca history exists everywhere, in the building architecture to the stones that line the city streets. It’s pretty cool.

The people still use traditional methods for just about everything. And it’s mostly the women carrying everything. No backpacks here — blankets are the primary form of transporting everything from babies and boxes to animals, grain, and wood. One can’t help but notice the hunched-over bodies of the elderly local women everywhere. These women below adorn their typical dress in the streets, but always want a sole (about 30 cents) to take their picture!!

Typical Peruvian women.

Classic Inca stonework, no mortar used. Can you see the llama?

Anything you want alpaca

Peruvian ladies and their llamas... got soles for a photo??

PERU Day 1: Cusco – Just trying to breathe

We arrived in Cusco on Monday, 11/15 where the 11,000 + foot elevation hits you right off the airplane. Climbing the 8 cobblestone stairs to our hotel felt like climbing Mt. Everest. They actually sell oxygen shots (appropriately called “Oxyshot”) in the airport and the convenience stores. We decided to take a taxi up to the city view instead of forcing our bodies through the altitude test on Day 1…

Our home away from home for 2 weeksMadre Tierra

Altitude: 12,232 feet

Local woman taking her pet for a walk over Cusco city.

Trip through El Yunque Tropical Rainforest

I came for kiteboarding and went to the rainforest! This was actually an unexpected treat. El Yunque, in the northeast mountains of Puerto Rico, is the only rainforest in the Caribbean. I didn’t expect much, but as I climbed the curvy, narrow, blind, one-lane road up through the mountains, the landscape changed drastically, offering me a great reward around every corner….

View from El Yuque tower looking to the north beaches of Puerto Rico

Lushness of the rainforest

Huge bamboo gardens with boo 50+ feet high and 12 inches around at the base. Hundreds of species of plants, palms and ferns that all seemed to be on hormones. Everything was big, lush, green, and thick. It all seemed to fold over me as I stood at a lookout or at a waterfall.

Bamboo in El Yunque

What was most impressive was something that I couldn’t get in pictures or really put into words. The sounds. There was an erie thick pulse in the air of bird and insect sounds that never ceased. It was constant — like a nonstop rhythm of coos, caws, and creeks. According to the self-guided interpretive tour (a tattered black and white photocopied map of the forest), these sounds come from a large number of native birds, parrots, hawks, owls and frogs.

The lush forest in the foreground and caribbean beaches in the background.

I stopped at the El Yuque tower, overlooking the forest and the beaches of Nuquillo below, checked out some waterfalls, walked some trails, then worked my way back down the narrow, windy road back down to sea level. I noticed that guard rails were only installed at the most suicidal-looking turns (looking straight down into rocks, a waterfall or a green canopy that was already 100 feet high), but every turn should have them!!! Here is my ghetto video from inside the Hyundai, heading down.

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